Again a big thank you is overdue to all our family, friends & supporters who have welcomed us back into the land of the living with open arms, offered their heart-felt congratulations & been so supportive in helping us work though post expedition commitments & challenges. A special thank you is in order for Stu Hindle who has helped me enormously with media exposure & getting out there into public forums, sharing the Expedition Amazonas story – thanks Stu!

Perhaps one of our proudest post expedition achievements has been the fulfilment of our sponsorship promises. It’s been wonderful to be able to give all our amazing sponsors the best possible return on investment. Attending trade shows, putting together top quality sponsor specific video clips, equipment testimonials, providing detailed feedback to sponsor R&D & publicity departments has certainly kept us on our toes. The intense nature of Expedition Amazonas allowed us to put each piece of sponsored equipment to the ultimate test in some of the harshest environments on the planet. As such we have been able to give honest appraisals on all of our top quality sponsored gear & have even been approached to offer feedback on how to improve them in some cases. Absolutely wonderful to now see things go full circle – to reward the faith our sponsors put into us – its very satisfying to be able to give back more & more. A big thank you again to First Ascent, Teva, Fluid, Electrotech, Suunto, Kokatat, ARK, RAM, WRSI, Garmin, Storm Case, V.I.O., Zeal Optics, Benchmade, Goya Gear, KINeSYS & of course our special partner Amazon Watch.

Here is a taste of our media exposure, some of our sponsor videos & public presentations. Its certainly made for busy but interesting times… Check in from time to time as we add our latest media and public exposure to the list…

Wild Magazine
Check out Mark’s latest feature article in the newest issue of Wild Magazine (Issue 112).  You may take a quick look at the article’s first couple of pages here and here.

Outer Edge Magazine
Nathan and Mark nominated for the Australian Adventurer of the Year Award 2008. Up against some amazing and inspirational adventurers, the brilliant Tanya Faux deservedly took the prize. Buy the magazine (Issue 12) for the full story.

Zeal Optics
Nath, Phil and Mark – Zeal Optics athletes. The ZB-13 polarized lenses really have to be the best going around.

First Ascent
Athletes, proud to fly the First Ascent flag, our official expedition apparel sponsor.

Storm Case
A nifty promo clip for another of our amazing sponsors and friends at Storm Case.  Check it out here.

Garmin
Stoked.  We are official ambassadors for Team Garmin SA.

Suunto.tv
Check out our clip on the Suunto.tv website.  Just click on Outdoor, choose Action and scroll through the videos to find ours.

Explorers Web
1. Expedition Amazonas Interview Part 1; Coke & Killer Rapids – 27 February 2008
2. Expedition Amazonas Interview Part 2; “I swear my next expedition is a lightweight, open country trek!” – 28 February 2008
3. Expedition Amazonas Interview Final; “The entire journey is etched upon my mind and my heart for eternity.” – 29 February 2008

ABC Radio
ABC Radio host Richard Fidler interviews Nathan on the Conversation Hour - 12 May 2008

4MK FM Radio
Meech & Teegs Interview Nathan over 8 days post expedition.
Part 1 of Nathan’s Interview
Part 2 of Nathan’s Interview
Part 3 of Nathan’s Interview
Part 4 of Nathan’s Interview
Part 5 of Nathan’s Interview

Meech & Teegs interview Nathan live from Brazil

The Cairns Post
Boy’s own adventure Front Page – 01 March 2008 (Print)
I survived the Amazon – 01 March 2008 (Print)
Amazon Adventurer Dodges Death – 01 March 2008 (Online)

The Daily Mercury
1. Adventurers take on the Amazon in 6,500km trek – 25 August 2007 (Online)
2. Adventurers take on the Amazon in 6,500km trek – 25 August 2007 (Print)
3. Daily Mercury Cartoon – 25 August 2007
4. Battered by a big river – 10 November 2007

The Sunshine Coast Daily
1. An Amazon Escape – 30 August 2007 (Online)
2. Up the river in a raft…for fun – 30 August 2007 (Print)
3. Amazon Adventure – 05 March 2008 (Online)

The Coolum Advertiser
Coolum’s own G.I. Joes – 30 August 2007
Locals in the thick of Amazon Expedition – 29 November 2007

Sunrise
An electronic extract of the expedition as told by the Sunrise team – 02 March 2008

Mark’s Sunrise Interview
Sunrise hosts Mel & Kochie interview Mark on Sunrise

Living in Peru
Peru: Aussie Heroes Raft the Entire Amazon – 08 April 2008

My Freesport
Six months, 4000 miles, one mission. River Gods (Page 1) – 21 February 2008
Six months, 4000 miles, one mission. River Gods (Page 2) – 21 February 2008
Expedition Amazonas – 21 February 2008 (Online)

Inmarsat
BGAN records epic Amazonian journey – 18 March 2008

Getaway Magazine
http://www.getaway.co.za/content/multimedia/amazon.asp

The Adventure Blog
Paddling the Amazon – ALL of it! – 21 September 2007
Expedition Amazonas Puts Whitewater Behind Them – 13 November 2007
Expedition Amazonas Update – 10 April 2008

Thrane & Thrane PR
Explorer 500 keeps expedition team in touch during gruelling six month Amazon trek.

Iquitos Times
Aussie Heroes Raft the Entire Amazon – 08 April 2008

WRSI Blog
Rio Apurimac – the Devine Voice – 30 May 2008

Kokatat Catalogue
http://www.kokatat.com/catalog_pdf/2008/kokatat_2008cat_14-15.pdf
Kokatat website – Sponsored Expeditions

Suunto Interview
Australian adventurers and Suunto decend the Amazon River
http://www.mountainfit.co.uk/archives/8

Angus Adventures Website
Featured Expedition – Expedition Amazonas – December 2007

SatMagazine
Thrane & Thrane BGAN Adventure

Outer-Edge Adventure Magazine (buy the mag for the full story)
http://www.outer-edge.com.au/index.html

Wild Magazine (buy the mag for the full story)
The Amazon by Raft – 06 March 2008

Czech Outdoor Magazine
1. Outdoor Magazine Cover
2. Expedition Amazonas article Page 1
3. Expedition Amazonas article Page 2
4. Expedition Amazonas article Page 3
5. Expedition Amazonas article Page 4

Go OUTSIDE! Magazine Brazil
1. go Outside Magazine Cover
2. Expedition Amazonas article Page 1
3. Expedition Amazonas article Page 2

Expedition Teazer for public presentations

ARK Inflatables sponsor promotion at the Queensland Boat Show

ARK Inflatables promotion brochure for the Queensland Boat Show

It cannot be forgotten, that Mark has done a lot of work in the sponsorship area & continues to mission along whilst living in London and planning his next expedition. He has also set up a new personal webpage www.markkalch.com. Well worth a look – a true modern day adventurer.

Mark, Phil & myself each have a number of exciting new ideas & adventures in the pipeline. This will be ‘the last post’ until the documentary movie is ready for sale. We will however be adding to the above exposure & presentation list regularly. You will be able to follow Marks new adventures & progress on his website www.markkalch.com. Phil at present is working in the Congo region over in Africa and we are pleased to report he is back to his 100% best. As for me, I am in the process of researching & formalizing the next big adventure…”from little things big things grow.” So much to do in a lifetime, so little time…

Click here to view the embedded video.

 Nathe has recently returned to Australia and is currently in Sydney, NSW awaiting the arrival of the expedition gear we have shipped back to Australia. 

 Meanwhile I am in London, getting the hang of the big city life.  It is often surreal, as I walk past Downing Street and Buckingham Palace, to think less than 2 months ago, we were both on Skop Gat, rowing our way to the Atlantic Ocean!  I have accepted a position with a company called Charity Challenge, as their Asian Expedition Manager.  I am stoked!  My role, briefly, entails being responsible for all their Asian region expeditions.  This includes Everest Base Camp treks, summiting mountains in India, exploring the hills in North Vietnam, the wonder of Mongolia and many more awesome experiences.  All in the name of adventure and charity!  I start in early May, leaving me no excuse not to be cracking on with post-expedition work.  Still ploughing through our 6000 odd photos and sending off copies to sponsors, along with gear testimonials and soon enough some video clips.  Storm Case , in particular have requested a 3 minute clip focusing on our use of their cases throughout the expedition, to use at trade fairs world-wide.  This is my most pressing task of the coming week and I am looking forward to it.  As for other tasks, the list is endless!  Sponsors…we have not forgotten our commitment to you!!!

 If you are hungry for more Amazon adventures then do I have some great news for you!  Hop over to Walking the Amazon.  Ed Stafford and Luke Collyer are 2 Pommy adventurers who have just set off to walk the entire length of the Amazon River, from Mismi to the Atlantic!  They expect to take between 16 and 18 months to complete their journey.  I am amped to follow them as they face the trials of such a huge undertaking.  Nathe and I have been in touch with the boys already and it is so far, so good.  Our best wishes and full support go with them.

 Keep checking back to our site also, as we post more news regarding some of the resulting media exposure the Expedition Amazonas has ganered thus far.  If there is nothing new when you check in, please just curse under your breath and do not give up, there will be new posts along shortly…

Back in Australia I have been doing much the same, however my internet access is a little more reliable. The media interest we have managed to generate through simple hard work and determination seems to be paying off. Daily we receive emails from magazines and newspapers eager to run something. We have a potential feature article in mainstream magazine Thats Life with a readership of over a million people! Awesome!

Wild Magazine, one of Australia’s leading outdoor magazines has also expressed keen interest in us writing an article for their next edition. After reading our post titled San Francisco (no flowers in our hair) it seems they were impressed enough to think we had an article in us worthy of publication. This is exciting news for Nathe and I.

As well there have been numerous articles in newspapers, TV and websites over the past week. We are stoked to get all this coverage, but it has certainly not come easily. To draw attention to our efforts has taken a lot of work. All the same we will keep pushing for coverage. Not, of course to get our mugs on TV or in the papers but to allow future endeavours to hopefully be looked upon by potential sponsors etc in high regard based upon this success.

Please keep checking back for more posts as we begin editing our footage and photos, as well as for more news regarding the team’s future plans.

First things first. While we appreciate any and to be frank all publicity we can garner for the expedition, the one thing that really kills us is inaccurate reporting. More than once, in articles about the expedition, the Amazon River has been referred to as the second longest river in the world! Journalists, have taken the decision into their own hands to brand the river so. This is wildly inaccurate and careless investigation. Please read the following from Wiki. These are the facts Jack!

“While debate as to whether the Amazon or the Nile is the world’s longest river has gone on for many years, the historic (yeh like, um, the Bible! – added by me) consensus of geographic authorities has been to regard the Amazon as the second longest river in the world, with the Nile being the longest. However, the Amazon has been measured by different geographers as being anywhere between 6,259 kilometres (3,889 mi) and 6,800 kilometres (4,225 mi) long. The Nile River in Africa is reported to be anywhere from 5,499 kilometres (3,417 mi) to 6,690 kilometres (4,157 mi). The differences in these measurements often result from the use of different definitions.”

“A recent study by Brazilian scientists claims that the Amazon is actually longer than the Nile. Using Nevado Mismi, which was labeled by the National Geographic Society as the Amazon’s source back in 2001, these scientists have made new calculations of the Amazon’s length. They now estimate that the Amazon is 65 miles longer than the Nile,^[7] and Guido Gelli, director of science at the Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics (IBGE), told the Brazilian TV network Globo in June 2007 that it could be considered as a fact that the Amazon was the longest river in the world. However, other geographers have had access to the same data since 2001, and a consensus has yet to emerge to support the claims of these Brazilian scientists.”

“Regardless of the actual length, the Amazon carries by far the greatest volume of any of Earth’s rivers.” OK?

Anyways, following on, I left Belem early Thursday morning and have made it to Chile. At 11pm this evening I shall make the flight to Auckland then onto Sydney. From Sydney I have a flight to Mackay, QLD, Australia arriving midday to make it just in time to surprise my grandma for her birthday. She will be well pleased. I hear she has become a bit of a celebrity at her retirement village thanks to her family connections to the expedition. Great to hear.

My last night in Belem was spent packing late and trying to extricate myself from that bloody beard which took several razors and some time. Funny looking oke staring back at me in the mirror now. He does not look quite so tough or mean, which just goes to show appearances mean nothing. Inside, this bloke is stronger in heart and spirit than he has ever been. I woke Nathe and we had a handshake and a quick hug and I was off. My mind was racing. This really was it. It’s over. The expedition is over. No more rowing, no more shifts, tides, headwinds, pain, swearing or river.

However, in saying that, since we reached that lighthouse it has been non-stop with emailing, phone calls, logistics etc. Nathe and I both at the point with trying to ship gear home where we just wanted it over. Because I am missioning to get home for my grandma’s birthday Nathe has been shouldered with the final sorting of the gear. Sorry bru! It’s packed, it’s ready to go. We must just agree on the price and off it goes. Enough already!

So back to Oz for me and back on the river for Nathe! Next week he will head back up the river we traveled downstream on for 5 months. He will be udertaking post expedition work, ensuring we have adequate footage & information on a lot of the deforestation areas. This means re-visiting some of the amazing places we stopped in but could not really appreciate or take in. Too numerous to mention and the people in these places amazing. All the way back to Peru visiting the many friends we made along the way. Nice, Mario, villagers. Unfortunately, Petronio will be away at the very time Nathe will make it to Lima, a real shame. In about a month, Nathe will head back for what I hope for him is a bit of rest!

On my final evening we celebrated our success in style. A roadside stall burger and a walk to McDonalds in the mall for a grande McSuper Shake. We sure know how to party. Crazy!

More and more the media are taking an interest, of a kind (see above), in our feat. Today the Courier Mail in Queensland will run an article in their outdoor section. The Sunshine Coast Daily (QLD) and my own local, the Coolum Advertiser are also running stories. More are on the way, thanks in no small part to the massive work done by Angela Hanley, expedition administration officer extraordinaire!

Don’t forget our spots in SA mag, Getaway, UK mag myfreesport and Brasil’s Go Outside, as well as upcoming in Czech Outdoor and US Competitor.

By far the most respected expedition website online, ExplorersWeb have also posted the first 2 in a 3 part series of interviews of the expedition. Awesome! Check them out.

I suppose the biggest news is that Monday, 3rd of March at 6.15am QLD time, 7.15am NSW time (Australia, of course) the expedition has a spot on Sunrise, Australia’s most popular morning show! Pretty stoked! Mel and Kochie will be firing off a few questions to me from Sydney, NSW while I am in the Channel 7 studios in Mackay, QLD. It’s a real bummer that Nathe cannot be there for the interview. Pure circumstance means Nathe is in Brasil and I am in Australia. Seven wants the exclusive and want it fast. What can you do? So it is with mixed feelings that we feel joy at this good fortune. Anyway, I just hope I can interrupt Kochie long enough to thank some of our sponsors and thank my mate for the journey we undertook together. Tune in! Can they bleep out swear words on live TV? (Kidding!!!)

Also, we will be interviewed on ABC radio (Brisbane) that same day. The interview will air on their Morning Show radio programme hosted by Spencer Howson. So again if you get the chance tune in!

I leave behind in Brasil a bloke who was already my mate. After our experiences together over the last 6 months we now have something much more than that. In the past, Nathe and I never caught up for drinks, to party, to watch the footy or anything like that. We climbed, we did adventure races, we paddled and for the past 4 years planned this expedition. But the bond we have was forged under the most extreme of conditions and that can never be broken. We won’t, in all likelihood, see each other so much over the next few years. Me in Europe, Nathe in Australia and Africa, but no matter, that unbreakable link will remain for our lifetimes. I want to thank Welchy for being alongside me for the whole of the expedition. When I did it tough in the whitewater, he promised he would be right beside me every step of the way to the ocean. He was true to his word. We made it to that lighthouse and there we were, side by side. Cheers Nathe, you unstoppable, stubborn, determined SOB!

Oh, I fly into Mackay, Australia at 12.05pm, Sunday 2nd March and return to Brisbane at 6.10pm, Tuesday 4th March. Just for all those autograph hunters. I can picture it now, the hordes of people, the girls screaming. You know like when the Beatles came out to Australia! Wake up, you clown your dreaming again!

Ciao

We are currently back in Belem. Whilst we have savoured the opportunity to sleep in a real bed & have a hot shower (for the first time in a long, long time) – we are still missioning with post expedition work. Organising & packaging equipment for shipping, re-scheduling flights, working on sponsor commitments, trying to keep the website, family & friends up to date & a few other challenges that have blown up in our faces means the whirlwind that has been Expedition Amazonas continues even after we have claimed the prize. I think we are both looking forward to being able to take a step back very soon so we can let the achievement sink in & enjoy the moment – to be able to integrate & appreciate our little adventure.

Physically, our bodies still bear the scars of our epic. Shoulders, knees, elbows, & the connective tissue in fingers are the main bearers of pain at the moment but no doubt, time & rest will ease these little afflictions. Mentally its actually been a little challenging to adjust to the reality that we have finished – that we have completed the mission. Often times when lying in bed, you will find yourself unconsciously preparing to start your shift on the oars but then it suddenly hits you – oh yeh, no more paddling…its done!

Since having completed our journey, I have been asked a number of times “how do you feel?” Well I certainly feel pretty happy that we succeeded in our mission but without trying to sound like a pratt, it was never any surprise to me to be standing at that light beacon at Ponte Taipu. I had made my mind up long ago that’s what we were going to do & that’s exactly what we did – whatever it took! But to be honest, I think I need a bit of time to allow the ‘mission mode’ to wind down & then bask in the beauty of what we have just achieved.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank all of our supporters, family & friends for the inspirational words & posts along the way. I know I have said it before but you may never realise how uplifting it was to read your kind words when things were tough. Thank you all for sharing & being part of our adventure.

I would also like to acknowledge & thank the chap who has been beside me for the last 6 months & part of Expedition Amazonas from pretty much the moment I saw his eyes light up about 3 years ago when I asked if he was in. My mate & adventurer Mark Buffalo Kalch. After Big Phil had to leave us due to illness in Iquitos, something quite remarkable happened. I’m not sure if even he was aware of it at the time but slowly Marko began to change. It has been quite an amazing transformation & a wonderful spectacle to watch unravel before my very eyes. Marko stepped up, he raised the bar – whilst its still Buf, the man who stands before me today is more assertive, believes in himself & what he is capable of, but perhaps more importantly he has that dogged determination & won’t back down. Some of the things I have seen him do & say of late were not there 6 months ago. Beware, you will discover very soon a new man, a very powerful man! Thanks Mate for being by my side every step of the way & remember to keep pushing pushing for grander, more challenging life adventures!

It would be remiss of me at this time not to recognize & thank our team mate Big Phil Swart for his contribution to our success. Thanks big fella for joining us to Iquitos & being part of that life changing epic through the Apurimac. In the final 1km to Ponte Taipu & standing there in the pouring rain under that light beacon, our hearts & thoughts went out to you. Thanks for the adventure Indy!

One of the elements that has made the Expedition Amazonas experience so special has been the people we have met along the way. The list just goes on & on – Our logistics gurus, Petronio (Destination Peru), Mario (Andean Origins), Vera Cardosa (who is an amazing tour guide here in Belem who is helping us at the moment). Our medical adviser, Dr Caeser Sanchez. Alex from Hostal Manaus. Nice Yalan our legend river guide mate & his crew who offered us so much hospitality & support through the Apurimac. All these special people have helped us along the way & all we now consider friends. Then there is all the wonderful memories the local villagers have given us – truly beautiful people – so genuine, so giving! Everyone from Rocy the fisherman who fed us & gave us shelter after almost drowning at Powac & losing everything, to the children with their radiant smiles & playful antics. Thank you friends.

Then there is, of course, all of our awesome sponsors. Where would we be without all of their top notch equipment & service? Their continued service & support contributed greatly in creating the professional outfit that is Expedition Amazonas & its ultimate success. So to Electrotech Australia, Ark Inflatables, First Ascent, Teva, Fluid, Suunto, Kokatat, RAM, WRSI, Garmin, Storm Case, VIO, Zeal Optics, Benchmade, Goya Gear, & KINeSYS thank you, thank you, thank you.

A big thank you to Thomas Cavanagh & Amazon Watch. Again their support has been awesome. We hope in some small way we can now help their cause with our story & our footage. The Amazon is an amazing place & one of the planets richest, most diverse natural phenomenoms. We saw first hand the deforestation & devastation that plagues almost the entire region. We don’t have all the answers but the first step is definitely awareness. We must all be prepared to get off our bottoms & take some action, even if it is small. “From little things, big things grow” – each little individual action step moves us collectively towards a positive solution. Visit Amazon Watch now at www.amazonwatch.org & learn more about the huge challenges that face not only Peru & Brasil but the whole planet.

One last acknowledgement & thank-you. To 2 special people – Alexa Russell & Mike Saunders. It was over 5 years ago now that each of you gave me a book on paddling the Amazon. Two different books given to me by 2 different people(who didnt even know each other) in 2 different countries within 2 months of each other – co-incidence? I dont think so. It was these books that sparked the raging fire that is now Expedition Amazonas. Thank-you to the both of you for starting the fire within!

Whilst the river journey & adventure has reached an end, our life adventures certainly have not. We have only scratched the surface … so keep tuning into the website & communicating with us over the next few months as we begin working on documentaries, books & the next big adventure! If we can but inspire one or two of you out there to put it all on the line & pursue your wildest dreams & believe that you can actually do it – YES YOU! – then our little jaunt down the Amazon River has all been worth it!

We have reached the ultimate prize and at this very moment sit stranded in sticky mud just at the bottom of the Ponte Taipu Lighthouse.  The tide has gone out, we’re being slaughtered by sandflies, it’s pouring rain and we might be stuck here for a while…but we don’t mind – aahhh the sweet taste of victory!  Yeeeehaaaa

My thoughts? I will tell you the honest truth…I am knackered! Physically my body is feeling pretty bloody good. I have put on weight in the last couple of months from plenty of food and some hard out rowing. Over the entire journey I have had minimal illness or ailments. So pretty stoked about that.

Mentally, my brain is pretty scattered. We have worked our backsides off every single day of this journey. If we weren´t rowing we were doing exactly what I am doing now, typing away in random internet cafes, posting photos, editing videos, talking with sponsors, trying to convince media that our expedition may capture readers attention slightly more than that cat stuck up a tree story they eventually decided to run with. Just non-stop. Even now, thinking about post-expedition work makes the mind spin.

But, the most important task to focus on is getting to our end point. After that, who cares? We have done something that can never, ever be taken from us. Something that has changed us forever. I know now for certain – THERE IS NOTHING I CANNOT DO!

A return to the real world and the day to day challenges I must face, seem, at least right now to be trivial. If I decide not to take the bins out, I will not die. If I am late for work, I will not suffer too much grief. Things now for me are seen in a much different light. I believe I have always been a little bit outside the mainstream way of thinking, but jeez now? Bloody hell! But, trust me it is all positive. This journey (so far) has taught me so much, humility, the power of my mind and my body and a whole lot more. I also truly hope it has inspired others to follow their dreams and chase their goals, no matter how small or large they may be.

Right, some lighter stuff. The expedition just featured in the January edition of Brasil´s biggest outdoor magazine Go Outside. Brush up on your Portuguese to follow it.

We also have feature articles upcoming in Czech magazine Outdoor (ditto), awesome UK magazine myfreesport and US magazine Competitor (with a readership of 3.5 million people!). Sweet!

To sign off, a bit of blatant self congratulation. Check out this photo I took a few days back of this little cutie. As the tide was turning we spotted a river side house which had a jetty, a perfect spot to wait out the tide. The family there just about adopted us. They were so caring and generous you almost felt like staying for a while. This little girl was very shy but always stood still for the camera. I just point and shot, she did all the work, but I reckon it came out great. Not something that happens all that often with Nath and I behind the lens.

However, Naths video editing skills are coming along very nicely.  Check out his 2 new video clips, Life as an Amazonian and Laundry Day.

See you at the Atlantic! Ahoy!

With any big worthwhile goal, as you near its realisation & the ultimate prize, you will be tested one last time to ensure that you really want it. It has been my experience over the years that this is a very natural part of the process when you pursue your dreams & it is what I term ”the 11th hour phenomena”. As the dream ebbs oh so close to reality, you will be tested like never before – tested to ensure you really want this thing – tested to see what you’re made of. The 11th hour is a time of character – there will be those of us who will do what it takes & there will be those of us who will call it a day. Do we have what it takes? Well that remains to be seen, as we still have 150km of hard slog left. But I will share with you some of our experiences over the last 17 days & you can make your own mind up…

We ended up leaving Santarem early evening around 7.00pm, with dolphins playing & splashing all around us. There was an energy in the air, you could feel it, as if the river gods where preparing for our final run home. Sure enough around midnight a storm hit us with rain, headwind & crashing waves. We knew this was for us…

In the next few days we made good steady progress despite intermittent rain & storms along the way. The river became an enormous expanse of water, stretching to 10km wide from bank to bank. But often we could not even see the true bank thanks to the multitude of islands & channels that now broke up the river. A lot of the time we would paddle in a 7km expanse from either side. Again this meant that any moves we made had to begin sometimes ½ a day before the actual manoeuvre There were times, especially at night & early morning when the wind dropped, the river was still, & the stars were out that you felt it was just you on this tiny piece of water, just you with the twinkling sky – very peaceful moments. This was in stark contrast to those times when the wind was pumping & the swells created breakers, tossing you about like a little toy.

The dolphins were with us almost constantly, day & night in that first week after leaving Santarem. Then suddenly they disappeared – it seemed as if something was changing. And changing it was – the river began its spiral into the Delta. We had studied the maps for days & decided well in advance on our strategy for attacking the Southern side of the Delta region. We had quite a few must make moves in this area to ensure firstly that we entered the correct side of the Delta & then stayed in the flowing channels. A dead end channel that had flow feeding into it would have been disastrous for us to try & exit from in the raft. The first must make move was a success due to a series of profound events leading up to it. The night leading into it, I had just taken over from Mark on the oars when a storm hit – the proceeding 2 hours saw much rain & headwind. I was unable to see a foot in front of me & orientation was a matter of using the flag on the top of Skop Gat to get an idea of where the boat was heading. The headwind that night actually pushed us to the RHS bank which is where we wanted to be. As the rain cleared, I could see we were close to the RHS & seemingly set up nicely for the move. For the remaining 4 hrs of my shift I paddled hard – there was little or no flow so it was a matter of no paddle, no movement forward. So paddle I did. At the end of my shift I checked the GPS & marked us on the map as per usual. It was then that I realised to my horror that I had progressed 1km from when I had taken over from Marko. 6 hrs of hard out paddling & 1km – what the…? We discussed the situation & decided that Marko should paddle us over to the RH bank for the night & rest up rather than expanding 6hrs of fruitless paddling. The next morning it all became clear. In the light of day I could see that the storm had pushed us into an enormous recirculating eddy on river right. What had happened was that I was paddling against the eddy flowing back upstream for 2km where I would then hit this monstrous eddy line that would feed me back downstream for 2km just for the process to start again. So this back & forth process had me paddling for 6hrs with minimal results. Let’s just say that quite a few expletives were shared with the river that morning when I saw what had happened. Ahh the joys of paddling in stormy weather. However as the morning progressed it became quite apparent that this was no coincidence, it is in fact a profound event that helped us.

The move off to river right came later that morning. It was a huge ferry across 2 channels with a prevailing headwind making it very challenging. I actually had to walk us across a mud island at one stage to ensure we made forward momentum against the headwind. What sent a little shiver down the spine was the realisation that there is no way we could have successfully negotiated this move the night before, perhaps not even on a clear night – it was a definite day move! Spooky.

Onwards into the Delta we marched & it was spectacular. The river went through a dynamic change yet again. It was an amazing experience to be a part of this transformation & watch it all unravel in front of your eyes. A maze of narrow channels where the river had a real ‘tight’ feel, contrasting the huge expanse we had just deviated from. The flora changed markedly, becoming more tropical & dense. Even the house & village construction changed to the authentic jungle type dwellings that seem to really define Amazon living. The people suddenly became more friendly & you could feel a real sense of community & tightness. Generally there was a cool vibe to the place, almost quaint in a way & a real positive energy in the air.

Aesthetically, it has been the one of the most beautiful areas we have experienced on Expedition Amazonas & I suspect it will hold a very special place in our hearts forever. There were mornings where the mist & stillness created even a closer, tighter jungle feel – you could almost reach out & touch everything – there was no place you would rather be & paddling was an absolute pleasure. Some nights with the channel not 20m wide & the stars had come out to play you couldn’t help but slip into the river & float beside Skop Gat, gazing up at that sky & listening to the ear candy jungle sounds echoing all around.

We created quite a spectacle for the locals as we meandered down their neighbourhood canals. Often they would come up to chat & generally have a bit of a sticky beak at this strange craft & the 2 stranger occupants on board. I cannot recall a time when any villager through the Delta who saw us did not offer a wave or greeting of some sort. The whole area really lifted our spirits & it was a special time for the both of us. It was quite amazing the shift in mood & morale through this Delta section. The Amazon River Gods have given us something special, that we will take with us as beautiful memories – this first part of the Delta was special! But the River Gods still had some mighty challenges ahead, things were about to change again…

The first sign of yet another change came at the back end of the Delta. It was nearing a shift change around 12.00 midnight. I had a busy night, keeping clear of huge tankers & clowning around on a lighthouse beacon in the middle of one of the bigger canals after a few close calls. When the traffic cleared I ventured off again, but it wasn’t long before something wasn’t right. Forward progress became difficult & I increasingly had to pump hard to make any forward movement at all. Within ½ an hour despite me paddling flat out we were going backwards. I ferried from river left to river right searching for flow, searching for answers, especially after my last indiscretion getting caught in that recirculating eddy for 6hrs. But nothing – it was backwards we were a going! We discussed the situation & could only come up with one conclusion… tides. But tides? This far up the Delta? That would make it some tidal surge!

The next morning the river revealed its next big challenge …yep, it was tidal flow. Not quite 6hr flows this far back from the ocean but tidal nevertheless. We now had limited time to make progress in a 24hr period. Once we had worked out more or less when tides would change we would jump straight back on the oars. In this, the last portion of the Delta proper it certainly affected our momentum but we still were able to make reasonable forward progress. But that was all about to change.

On the 2nd February around 6.00pm we exited the Delta proper & found ourselves in a huge expanse of water called the Para River. The River was like a major highway – there were boats & huge ships all around. Tidal action was now more intense, happening on the regular 6 hr cycle. We now have only 12hrs in a day to make forward progress. It’s hard to believe but headwinds actually picked up in intensity & are with us pretty much non stop – occasionally we may get a small respite in the wee hours of the morning. And the icing on the cake is the river flow has all but disappeared for us – it is pretty much paddling on a huge lake for us. Skop Gat does not exactly disperse water for effective forward movement on flat water so from here on in – no paddle = no progress. With all of these factors now coming into play on this huge open expanse we are totally exposed to ALL of the elements.

Our strategy had to change to support this new environment we found ourselves in. Firstly we split our shifts into 3hr stints. Due to the changing tides we began island hopping on the Northern side the Para River (the Southern side of Marajo Island). At this stage we could not even see the real Southern side of Marajo Island due to the mass of islands that skirt its perimeter. One of the real problems for us was being caught in the middle of a move & the tide changing on us. We basically walked a tightrope every day to make the next island or next piece of land to ensure we did not go backwards. On a couple of occasions we were just short & the tide would bite us. It would then become a matter of damage control & we would do 30min power shifts to get us to the closest piece of terra firma. On one particular day we lost about 5km, after being caught out by the surging incoming tide. We did a lot of strategic planning – talking through the best options to make our next move forward. Our progress slumped to a staggering 10 – 20 km per day. A 20km day is a now superb day for us. There were even days when we could only travel a 7km distance.

This new environment continued to grow in ferocity with raging headwinds blowing us backwards. Whilst we may only paddle 12hrs in a day – strangely enough we have never worked harder. Our bodies have been put to the test over the last 10 days & physically we are feeling the bite! Connective tissue in the fingers & elbows are really feeling the pinch. Marko has the continual nagging of an old shoulder problem. My RH shoulder is really struggling at the moment & when I’m battling hard, I feel pain shoot all down through bicep, forearm into a tingling & numbing of the right hand. These plus all the other little physical niggles means our bodies are screaming at the moment. Hang in there bods, just 150km to go!

Battling those headwinds & storms has at times been an absolute nightmare. A good example that comes to mind was a huge storm that skirted us when I was on the oars. Whilst the rain missed us – the headwind did not. According to our Garmin GPS – the headwind pushed us back at 4km/hr. It was an awesome power to experience – there was nothing to do but dig in one oar & guide us to the bank with the other so we could tie off to stop our backwards momentum & then wait it out!

As we slowly surged forward into the Para, every day truly became an epic. I can’t recall one day where at the end of it there wasn’t some amazing story to record in the diary.

Too many to share for this post, which is already probably too long, but here are a few highlights:

• Repairing holes in the floor in the middle of the night whilst battling the incoming tide.
• It becoming ‘normal’ for us to get out of Skop Gat & haul her through knee deep mud or chest deep water at any time of the day or night – just to make a few km forward progress against the raging headwind. Just a little worried about the constant exposure to the Candiru – a small parasite that can swim up the urethra – Eish!
• The best laid plans & strategies thrown out the door due to Mother Nature’s mood on the day. We eventually reached the point where we just took each day on its merits & stopped in depth planning. There are just too many variables that come into play, & it is now a matter of trusting ourselves, each other & our abilities to deal with ANY situation.
• Listening to your mate outside swear & vent much frustration & anger at the river whilst on the oars – after yet more backwards momentum, or more hitting mud & the oars getting stuck, or a tree that your tied up to in the middle of the night pounding the canopy roof after the rising tide, or just another bloody raging headwind.
• Coming within a whisker of being hit by an enormous tanker in the middle of the night. And I do mean a whisker – I could actually see the enormous bow of the ship bearing down on us. The only thing that saved us was the wake or water dispersing from that bow. It created a cushion wave like effect that just pushed us away at the last minute. This coupled with a series of frantic, desperate paddle strokes to the right saw us just graze past. My angry shouts were simply met by my own echo off the side of this monster. Close, close, close!
• Tying up to posts that the local fisherman use for their traps to protect us from being hammered into the side proper by the incoming tide. Then late at night finding ourselves floating upstream & loosing ground – huh? The post was still attached to the raft rope but we were floating. It seems the ebb & flow of the raft was enough to slowly work the post free even after being about 4-5 foot in the mud.
• Tying up to a tree early as the tide turned only to have it sink the back end of the boat because of an enormously high tide that night. So spending the early hours of the morning diving underwater to free the no knot friction & release the raft & us from the drowning position.
• Late at night we where approached by local fishermen who were a bit suss on us mooring up so close to their fishing area. We thought they were pirates so armed ourselves with our Benchmade knives & a machete. We were tired, cranky & to be honest we were ready for action. In the end, after a bit of a chat & giggle & they understood what we were doing, everything was sweet.
• Watching Buffalo do what we have affectionately named the “the Penguin”. It was a stinking hot day & we had missed our goal of Ponte Severino by about 2km before the incoming tide stopped us. We were determined to get there so we almost crawled, dragging the boat through mud that was over our knees for 2 hrs. If I wasn’t so stuffed at the time I think I may have peed myself with laughter. I turn back to see Buff sliding on his tummy through the mud. Because the big fella is a lot heavier than I am, he actually couldn’t walk at all in the sloppy mud, nor could he put too much weight on his hands. The solution was ‘the Penguin’ where he slithered his way to Ponte Severino.
• 2 EPIC river crossings that took us from river left (the Marajo Island) to the Brazilian Mainland on river right. Each crossing was a 7km ferry. A ferry that had to be made amidst storms & headwinds pounding us, huge swells & before the tide changed. Failure to reach terra firma meant that we could potentially lose 20km that day on the incoming tide. But perhaps what made these 2 successful crossings such a monumental achievement for us was they were done with our bodies screaming & after a week of sustained tests & challenges.
• Spending amazing time in local villages between tide changes has been one of our blessings. The people have been amazing. Again very friendly, genuine & giving. Through all the big challenges, frustrations & pain of recent times, the local Brazilians have somehow taken the edge off things for us. After departing we feel rejuvenated & alive just from the experience. Despite the language barrier, we chatted, laughed, played, cooked & gained a real appreciation for these people who have so little but offer so much.
• A freakish meeting with an Aussie bloke called Geoff just outside a small village called Albras. We were cooking up some lunch & playing with the local kids on a beautiful little beach when a Mexican lady (Hoty) rocked up & started chatting to us in English. It turned out that her husband worked with an Aussie guy from Perth. The next minute she pulled out a mobile phone, called Geoff & without any introduction handed the phone to Marko to talk. Hilarious – watching Marko try & talk his way out of this one – needless to say that Greg was astounded. He was so mystified that he took the afternoon off & ventured down to meet us with his lovely partner Patcha. We spent an intriguing 45 minutes exchanging stories before we had to cruise back onto the river. Amazing really… another special moment!
• Standing in knee deep mud stranded by the outgoing tide just 5m from a deep water canal late in the evening. There was only one thing to do as we waited for the incoming tide – call the family on the BGAN to let them know we were OK & make a cup of tea. So here we are in this smelly sloppy mud, sipping high tea, chatting on the sat phone whilst passing ships & boats blasted us with their spotlights, totally bemused by what they saw. Funny times!

We actually departed Manaus early evening on Friday the 18 Jan. We were very keen to get away earlier but it was not to be. There were a few delays in obtaining our maps from Captain Pires at the Brazilian Navy office. But eventually we walked out of his office with the all important charting information for the Amazon Delta area. From there we ventured back to Hostal Manaus where we said our goodbyes to Alex & thanked him for all his help. We lugged all our gear, including fully assembled oars into a taxi, then a boat, & then finally we arrived at Skop Gat, our trusty raft.

To our shock we found Skop Gat to be in a not so good state. She had been trashed in the recent storms that had hit the area. She had been pushed up against pylons & pontoons – clips were broken, holes were torn in the lower canopy extension, outrigger/thwart retainers had been torn off & a gash had been worn into the LHS rear pontoon. Ahhh! We spent the next 2 hours getting her back in working order, then I had a little disagreement with the chap who was looking after her regarding the “minders fee”. As per usual he wanted more money but when I asked him if he was going to fix me up for all the damage to Skop Gat as a result of his “minding”, we quickly reached a gentlemen’s agreement & we were on our way.

I was first shift on the oars but I wasn’t feeling too crash hot. I hadn’t been feeling too well for the whole day actually & as the early evening progressed so too did my decline. Furthermore the prevailing headwind began to start pumping. This coupled with the fact that the flow of the Negro where it converged with the Amazon River was very mixed up, messy water meant that in my first 6 hr shift we made very little progress – I’m talking about 3km, if that. I was quickly fading in the engine room & I stumbled into bed when Marko took over at 12.00 midnight. Things didn’t improve too much for him with the headwind nor the flow. Plus he wasn’t feeling 100% either with a quick hit of diarrhea slowing him up. The end result – after 12hrs of paddling we had progressed only 10km. It looked like it was going to be a long ride to Santarem!

The headwinds from the East have been relentless – they are now always with us, the only variable has been their intensity. I was pretty low for the next 2 days & at times I would simply look for huge trees flowing in the river so I could have a quick breather. I would tie up to the floating beast so we would at least keep moving forward against the headwinds, whilst I crashed out in the back engine room for 20 mins to rest. Thankfully after 2 days, the nausea passed & I began to regain strength & energy. Yeha! Life is a little easier & a much better experience when your not spewing & have no energy in the tank.

We still encounter intense storms but they have been a little quicker to pass. Whilst they might not hang around for as long as in the past, their amazing power is still there. Early one morning around 4.00am, Marko was on the oars when one of these little babies hit. We were in the middle of the river & we are talking a river that is now easily 5km wide. Within a matter of minutes the storm had blown us into the river left bank into a tree graveyard. There were enormous trees lying in the river everywhere & I do mean everywhere. These huge skeletons shadowed over us & seemed to imprison us with their tentacle like branches threatening to puncture Skop Gat at any moment. Marko desperately grabbed a hold of huge overhanging branch & just stuck fast whilst the wind howled & the rain fired down. I was inside & frantically monitoring the branches all around. I pushed away a couple of trees from our sides but I could still hear rubbing from somewhere. Then suddenly, I heard the unmistakable sound of something tearing. I turned to the front of the boat & there before me I see this huge branch actually inside the boat canopy – it had pierced a hole in the front lower canopy extension. Ooo Bugger, that’s not good. I immediately thought to myself, I’m glad I don’t sleep on that front bed anymore’. If I did, it would have been nasty! I carefully removed the branch & tried to push the tree away but it wasn’t budging & the branch continued to tap against the top canopy. I asked Marko if he could move us at all, but he was holding on for dear life outside – no left, no right, no forwards, no backwards. Marko muttered something like, “this just never ends”, we laughed & held on. Pretty soon the wind eased long enough for Marko to maneuver us out of there – & we just moved on. Another night on the Amazon.

After some really slow going in the first 3 days, we then began to hit our straps & we started to scorch our way here to Santarem. We used the river a little more creatively with the maps provided by Captain Pires. We would discuss the best flow rates through certain routes & then set ourselves up hrs in advance to make those moves. We have however had a few close calls with big ships & tankers late at night & early morning. These babies are just so big & you really have to stay on the ball because we are never going to win a fight against one of these heavyweights (as much as I would like to give it a go!). And we even get a bit of a joyride from the sets that roll in from their wake.

The prevailing headwinds coupled with the enormous width of the river have created an environment very similar to that of floating on the ocean. There are howling winds & crashing waves – yes waves that actually break! And there are times when you forget that we are actually on a river here & not an ocean. It really is amazing to see & experience.

Were not sure whether it is us taking more notice of our environment or whether the River Gods have decided to turn it on for us in this stretch from Manaus to Santarem. But either way, our memory banks of treasured memories & special moments continue to grow. We perhaps saw our last full moon on the Amazon & what a night it was. Every night previously had been overcast but this one night the Amazon put on a show. A clear night, a full moon that glowed with such intensity that it lit up the river, the jungle, everything. You could feel the power of the night everywhere – the breeze in your face, the stars all around & that moon…

There has been a multitude of spectacular sunsets, with such beautiful hues reflecting off majestic cloud formations. It leaves you in awe at this place we call the Amazon. Again there seems to be a great energy emanating all around at these times.

And of course the dolphins. Almost daily we spend quality time with our friends. They play & frolic, laugh at us when we try & take photos & just plain make our day. We have even spent times in the water swimming with them trying to get them excited. But it seems my years as a dolphin trainer have not paid off & I’m yet to actually touch one of these spectacular creatures.

Then there are those funny little things that happen – like Marko falling into the river whilst trying to tie up to a huge floating tree trunk. I had jumped out for a pee & I turn around to see there is no Marko on the oars – Huh? After I investigate further I see Marko sheepishly looking up from the log he was clinging too. He had over extended as he tried to grab a hold of the tree & tumbled into the river. We laughed!

One morning when I was sick I was lying down in the back of the raft. Marko had woken up & looked out to see an empty seat. To put it politely he’s… himself. Thinking to himself that I had fallen out of the boat in my delirious state, he jumped up from his slumber shouting ‘Nath’. I groaned out from my sloth like state in the bottom of the raft. Thank God was the big fella’s response. Again we laughed!

Ok back down to business. Well, we will stop here in Santarem for a day or so to resupply, get a good nights rest & prepare for the final chapter. Yes, this is it, we have traveled somewhere close to 6000km & we now only have 800km left until we stand on that beach at the Atlantic Ocean. Its crunch time – we have about 400km to the Amazon Delta wherein the river will branch off into a multitude of different channels. From here the huge tidal surges from the Atlantic will now impact upon our progress quite drastically. We will have only small windows every day to make some progress towards Belem, as there is no way we can negotiate the power of an incoming tide. We will have to be patient & time our runs forward with the outgoing flows & then make sure we are secure when she turns so we don’t go backwards. The other factor we have to keep an eye on is our route through the Delta. We have to get this right! We want to take the Southern most route towards Belem for 2 reasons. Firstly, it will protect us against the threat of Pororachas (which are wicked rolling waves that make their way in from the Atlantic & the Northern reaches of the Delta area). Secondly, this Southern Route will see us travel the entire distance of the Amazon River, which is now also recognized as the world’s longest river (National Geographic). Due to the many variables, we estimate that this final run to the Atlantic could take anywhere between 10 & 20 days. All will become clear in the fullness of time. What does the mighty Amazon have installed for us in this final chapter? Let’s find out…

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