On the road again!
20 Jan 7:27 am by Mark Kalch Category: The Expedition
Well, it is with some joy that I write this post. We have been in Manaus now since early Sunday morning. That’s when our ordeal began (no…hang on…that started September 1 when we arrived in Lima!). This is another long one and not overly exciting but the detail explains what we have endured over the last week.
Our stop in Manaus was to be a quick overnighter. Enough time to have a full night’s sleep and source a new set of navigation charts for our final leg to Manaus. It took Nathe just a couple of hours to find the equivalent maps in Tabatinga for that leg. How much easier it was going to be in a city approaching a population of 2 million? Answer: a lot harder!
As you are aware from our previous post just reaching the city proved to be a mission. Once here, we needed to find a hotel room. As always, our accom is budget but mysterious stains on the bed budget? (and this is before Nathe has slept on them!). Pure fatigue drove us accept our lodgings, but not before asking for the sheets to be changed. After that things were looking up.
Monday morning we set off to find our maps. First stop, the Marinha do Brasil or Brazilian Navy. Our Portuguese is non-existent. No worries, our bit of Spanish should get us by. No…it won’t. It seems the similarity between Spanish and Portuguese promised to us has been much exaggerated. We did finally manage to get our message across (sort of). The officers we spoke to repeatedly told us that no charts from here to Belem were available. How could that be possible? Finally they directed us to Rent Equipo Naval, it seems the only boat shop in town. Charts? Sure they have charts. 3 out of the 15 we so desperately needed. Nothing doing there. Can they order them in from Rio? No. Of course not.
Back to the Marinha do Brasil. Boy, were they happy to see us again. Again, much discussion back and forth. Comings and goings by officers to the gate to talk to us. At one point an officer who spoke Spanish returned with the exact book of charts we needed…only for the Tabatinga to Manaus leg. Another dead end.
Next the Marinha detailed a lowly ranked young sailor to escort us to another Navy base on the other side of the city centre. While we waited outside once more he spoke to several people with much shaking of heads. He did return with a name, address and phone number of…Rent Equipo Naval! Where we had just been. We returned to the other base and were left standing with nothing. A day wasted and things were looking bleak. If the Brasilian Navy could not access these charts, who could?
We managed to upload a few photos, throw up a post and get some awesome and much needed sleep.
The following day we headed to the Port with hopes of speaking with the masses of boat captains that guide the many boats up and down this massive highway – the Amazon River. It was indeed difficult to even find these captains. We managed to track down a few a by all accounts they do not use charts. How do the make their way from the Atlantic, 2000km into the jungle? They just know the way to go (and it would seem from our experience a massive spotlight). No luck…again.
We had been in Manaus for a full 3 days and had managed to accomplish very little. Our initial elation at having reached an important goal had well and truly been dampened. No maps, no food resupply completed and we still had to fix the oars. It really was laughable. We had to laugh just a little, otherwise…we might not cry, but some choice words would be thrown about (they still were I suppose).
Wednesday arrived. Things were a bit grim. I decided that maybe a change was in order. Following my confrontation with our budget lodgings I had sought to find an alternative. Via the net I had found the genuine HI (Hostelling International) affiliated Hostel Manaus. When I came to enquire about rooms on our arrival, they were booked full up, nada. While there, I talked briefly to an Australian bloke who appeared to work there (not so unusual, Aussies manage to end up everywhere). While, Nathe and I were walking in the street we ran into the chap again. We got talking. He didn’t work there, he owns the place! We agreed that we would drop by and show him some videos of our adventures thus far. Cool! That evening we did so and had an awesome chat. Alex had for years a small inkling that at some point he would like to live in the Amazon jungle. After working for some years in Korea and Taiwan he decided to give it a crack. Manaus it was. When he arrived almost 2 years ago, there was no such thing as a hostel in the city. Why not open one? After much hard yakka, the Hostel Manaus was born. Now, Alex is run off his feet as visitors from all over the world arrive in Manaus and make a beeline to his door. Swedes, Israelis, Brasilians, Colombians, Aussies, Canadians, Poms – they’re all here!
So now we are here too! Alex offered us the use of his drill and tools to fix our oars. When I brought them over, I must admit I had an ulterior motive – to get a room here. An infinitely more attractive option than where we were staying. Kitchen, lounge, breakfast, roof-top terrace, internet, the lot. Unfortunately the hostel was still booked solid. Alex, being an all-round top bloke then offered to have us stay here anyway. We could throw down some mattresses on some spare floor and we would be sorted. He was happy to help us out in anyway he could. Awesome! It did not take me long to move our gear over I can assure you of that.
After setting ourselves up at the hostel we ventured forth once more to find these damn maps. However before leaving, we grabbed Brasilian jungle guide Andre and made several desperate calls to the Marinha do Brasil Hidrografica e Navegacao – the very okes who make the maps and I might add sell them. Of course they have them. Many calls later and Andre tells us they are not issuing or selling the maps at this moment in time. So, the officially mapping agency for Brasil is not making available maps for the biggest and longest river in the world, the main highway across the country??? Aaaarrrghh! We needed to have a talk.
Over lunch, Nathe and I decided that we must move on. The maps were simply not available here. We would leave the following day and row 800km to Santarem. This we could do relatively safely. However from Santarem onwards we would hit the delta. Here, the Amazon branches into a spider’s web of waterways. A wrong turn here at best would mean days added to our journey, at worst putting our lives in great danger. In Santarem we would begin the search once more for maps. Not an ideal scenario but we would be 800km closer to the Atlantic and we would be moving, changing the situation, at least going somewhere.
But, I just could not give up. I could not believe for one second that these charts were not to be found in a major port city. A city with a Honda factory, a Samsung factory, a Sony factory and so many more. Massive ships coming and going every single day.
We set out for the final time.
First stop, the Biblioteca Publica or public library, a massive place. Closed for painting. Remember to laugh! Book stores? We found a bible shop, an antique book store, they could not help. Although the Bible store did have some sweet maps of holy sites in the Middle East.
It was now mid-afternoon and our options were fast diminishing. Another visit to the port resulted in nothing more gained. By this stage our spirits were down just about as low as they could go. Nathe had really had enough. So had I, but something kept pushing me. To be totally honest, I can put it down to 2 things.
Captain Pires informed he spoke a little English and if we talked slowly he could understand us. I laid it all out for him, the expedition, who we were, what we needed and the trouble we were having getting it. Nathe chimed in to tell him he could not believe that the Brazilain Navy did not possess navigation charts from Manaus to Belem. The captain agreed. He told us that they must have these charts and he promised (come to think of it he may have even vowed) to get them for us the following day. He said he did not know how, but he would. He requested we return the following day and he would have them somehow. He gave us his card, we shook hands and he walked us out.
What a result! 10 minutes before walking into his office, at close to 6pm in the evening we were facing the prospect of entering the delta with no navigation aids whatsoever. Now we had a massive dose of hope. I was stoked.
The determination and doggedness which led us to the captain has defined this entire expedition. There have been a score of times we could have easily given in. Powac, Iquitos, the Black Canyon…anywhere. But we have not. We have gritted our teeth and pushed on. That is what we did with the maps, we pushed and pushed and came up with a result (well not quite, we would have to wait until the following day to find out if the captain could get the maps).
Thursday and we finally do our food shop. A simple task, now complete. Our first attempt to fix the oars failed when Alex’s drill began to smoke and then stop working altogether. Doh!
Time to return to see the Captain. We bring the oars with us in the hope we will find somewhere to drill them. We arrive at the gates and present Captain Pires’ card. The sailor on-duty wanders off and returns telling us no deal, come back tomorrow??? No bloody way mate, Nathe tells him. Try again buddy. He comes back this time with 2 ID badges and leads us to the captains office. He greets us warmly. On his side desk sit a bunch of maps all covered in pencil and in a multitude of sizes. These he tells us are all the maps from Manaus to Belem. A wave of joy sweeps over me. Could it be true? He asks us to search through them and tell him which ones we need. It turns out we need them all. No problems. He will copy them all for us. We must return at 11am in the morning and they will be waiting. Yesssss!!!!! I am stoked.
Nathe and I leave the base with much back slapping and hand-shaking. It seems we are on our way once more. On our way back to the hostel, we find a nice family-run hardware type store he graciously allow us to use their drill. Quick as a flash, Nathe has drilled and bolted the oars. Done. Surely now we can leave?
Friday the 17 of January and we should leave Manaus, almost a week after arriving. I had real fears of this turning into another Iquitos. That would be tough.
We are 2000km from our goal. Much rowing lies ahead. We have been through so much that we must finish. We have had so much support along the way. Just now Borut Strel, from Amazon Swim has been fantastic, providing us with contacts both here and Belem. Piotr has again sent his best wishes and Colin Angus has sent a couple of inspiring emails. Family and friends who have been there the whole way are still pushing us to the finish line.
So we set off once again to test our bodies and our minds on a journey source to sea of the world’s biggest and longest river – the Amazon!
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If only you 2 knew how I miss being on expedition with you. Glad to hear you back on the liquid road, and enjoy every moment. Mine got unfortunatly cut short so have as good a time as I did.
So go with my thoughts and prayers. very jealouse of you. SKOP GAT!
Comment by philipo — January 20, 2008 @ 7:54 am
the fulfillment of that dream is almost complete…keep pressing in towards that goal….i can’t wait for the next post!!!
Sending as usual, much love, lots of hugs….intensely wish i was there…
love
:)
lexy
Comment by Lexy — January 20, 2008 @ 6:30 pm
Hi, Mark & Nat, five thousand k/m of the migthy Amazon defeated but dont under estimate her remaining moods for have no doubt she has a few more devious challenges planned as she hates to be conquered.
We would have though, after all that you have been through over the past 4 months you would have been blessed with a greater dept of tolerance, patience and understanding but the tone of this post suggest otherwise.He!He!Ha!Ha!Ho!Ho!
Boys as the finishing line gets closer the excitement grows for all of us. These posts are a godsend as they have enabled us to share your numerous feelings& experiences . We thank you.
Boys remain vigilant and safe, still 2000k/m to conquer . Look forward to the last chapter.
Nat we are extremly proud of what you, Mark & Phil have achieved .
Lots of love Bill & Toni
Comment by Bill Welch — January 20, 2008 @ 8:20 pm
p.s….been thinking about the espanol vs portuguese thing. My brazilian friends in Mozam once said to me after a very confusing convo that brazilians have a tendency to turn their words into “more colourful” portuguese by adding -inos (ee-nosh) to the nouns - in other words the dimunitive. Not sure that if this is at all helpful, but it helped my portguese conversational skills with them alot when i figured this out (especially as there was a group of Argentianians speaking a spanish- port mix in the room too!)
love lexy x
Comment by Lexy — January 21, 2008 @ 1:54 am
Dear Mark and Nathe
BON COURAGE for the next leg. You really are determined and good for you! Hope the maps turn out to be the right ones,all the best,
Christine and Elyot
Comment by Christine and Elyot — January 21, 2008 @ 3:18 am
excellent work boys
Comment by willow — January 21, 2008 @ 4:51 pm
Nath and Marko,
Great post my friends, although in tough circumsatnces you are still pushing through the barriers - man this trip has pushed you both to the ends.
Buff - great to see the determination coming through - Nath - you must be getting more patient in your thirties as almost a week with no result and you were still able to communicate well to others - exceptional bro
You have another 2000m to go and it is all ahead of you now. Use all the experience which you have gained in the last 4 months to continue to conquer this river. There is alot of hard work to come in this final leg as you both are mentally and physically exausted. Remeber to always stop and ask the question - ok if we go this way or do this - “What is it that I don’t see”.
Remember it is not what we see ahead that stops us - it is what we don’t see and often we are faced in trying to come to terms with situations because we actually could not have seen them coming. If we take a minute in the planning and ask ourselves what we don’t see - and then wait for the answers as we look over the plans - amazingly another resource starts to come through and show and prepare us for just what is ahead.
You are now coming into a time when all the successes and set-backs have to be forgotten as it is all for now - it is now and only now that matters - you have set the goal but now you need to stay focused on the daily achievements that will get you there. Each day renew yourselves again - spend a little time when you swap paddlers and release last sessions experiences and open the door to be refreshed and start again. This will keep you on top of the river and also your mental state will stay at its peak. When you reach your first stop - do what you can to stay fuly alert to the river and what it is doing - if this means to cut back on the paddling a little than do so.
In the Old Testament the people came under the law of Moses. In this they would have to give animals up for sacrifice in order to ask forgiveness of thier sins. In doing this each time a priest would lay the sacrifice on the Altar and burn it - they would clean the ashes also - each and every time they would clean the ashes. If we look at this as in our own lives - we should aslo clean the ashs everyime we are found to have succeeded or failed. We should always be living in the present - not the past nor the future - it is only today that will make the difference that we are looking for - each and every day clean the ashes my friends and start afresh - ready to take the experiences you have had in life an make a whole new way again this day.
Jesus says in the Gospel of Matthew - Don’t worry about tomorrow for today has enough worries of it own. Good teaching. Saint Paul then says tht we should not look back as it only ever brings us to a standstill - He says to only look ahead and keep your eyes on the will of God for your life.
Boy’s don’t look back - only forward and in looking foward stay focused on the present - do what you need to do. When in doubt back your experiences and move through it.
All the best on your next leg,
Go in Gods speed and protection,
Mick
Comment by Mick — January 22, 2008 @ 10:43 am
Hi Nath,
I’ve been looking through the photos and see the one whereyou are fixing the ore. It reminds me of a time when I knew a young man who after a number of brews actually liked himself to a bit of a pop star down at the kareoke bar nest to the terrace hotel. I just can’t get the image out of my head when after a good hour or so on the microphone the strapping young man decides to look down and notices that the lead for the mic is actually not pluggedin - he then turns to his partner in brews and sees that it is not actually a mic that he has been using to sing along with but the cord that is missing from his mic. Sorry mate - I still get laughs from this night.
From the same period: maybe the same night
That brings to the time when you also thought that you may have the potential to be a bouncer as there seemed to be no one standing on the door of the Saloon bar. After a few people kindly showed their ID’s one chap thought that a bouncer would not be in such fine dress and began to question the authenticity of your claim to be a bouncer. After a little talking back and forth the chap left - sometime later as we are at the bar actually next to a real bouncer the chap who was rejected by Nath the door bouncer comes from nowhere and agrues again that he doesn’t think that we are bouncer’s - little did he know the poor fellow that the great big man who we had been talking with was and began to tell him so. He persisted not to believe him (don’t know why that was . . he. . he. . he) and was thrown out never to return. I would put that down as a successful one night carrer i bouncing big Nath.
many more memories come to mind - to many for now.
Always with you guys
Remember - Faith requires belief in something that is not yet seen. Just as you boys showed in getting the maps - without faith we are likened to walking dead as we live only excepting what we wake to see every day. Remeber that although not yet seen my friends - every day is another moment toward the end - day by day and then there it is - what was not seen previous is then a living experience - the reaching of your goal. Go for the maximum always boys - I am astonished at the stamina and stay power that you have and are showing all the time.
God Bless you both from the very depths of my heart, I send you the peace of God - this is not a peace that man looks for put a peace tat surpasses all understanding.
Mick
Comment by Mick — January 22, 2008 @ 9:23 pm
Hey boys - are you there yet???
Happy Australia Day for tomorrow - you are doing us proud. Will be celebrating here with a few vino’s and the Triple J Hottest 100 countdown as is tradition.
Thinking of you lots. Big love. Ange xxx
Comment by Angela Hanly — January 25, 2008 @ 8:46 am
Happy Australia Day for tomorrow Marko and Nathe!! We will be having an Aussie meat pie or two and raising our glasses proudly to our Aussie Heroes (you two!)
Lots of love and well wishes from everyone here.
Donna xxx
Comment by Donna — January 25, 2008 @ 3:27 pm
To our two Aussie heros Nathan & Mark thinking of you both. Happy Australia day, we will be celebrating down at South Bank & rafting from the west bank to the east bank & back again, damm hard yakka, nearly as tough as the amazon.
Lots of love to you both from the clan.
HAPPY AUSTRALIA DAY!!! Toni & Bill xxxxxxxxxx
Comment by Toni-Maree — January 25, 2008 @ 9:36 pm
Hi Boys,
Another Australia day at an end meaning that we are all now another year older. I remeber that this time last year the plans for the Amazon were going into full committment with the two of you having given your committment to do it and prepare for it.
Make no mistake that the two of you are just where you should be right now and in being there the plan from above was to always see that the last stages would be complete as two.
The good Lord had brought you some great men in order to achieve the goal of paddling the entire river but I know He intended a purpose for you to finish this as two. No doubt that for this to happen that Phil needed to be with you up to when he had to go due to the mistery illness (good to see my friend that you are on the mend - would love to see if our paths are able to meet when I am back in SA next - maybe may).
I can understand that the two of you right now are focused on getting to the end - but make sure that you are paying great attention to what is happening in the thoughts of your minds as it is now that the Great God of all living and dead is going to bless you with new visions and new life for your futures. I can see that in this time He is going to get personal with you both that will see everything change perspective in your lives and how you see things.
I cannot erge you enough to make sure you are giving room for your thoughts to be given over to the Dream Maker - this is what He has for you both right now -
James 1:4 “Perseverance must finish its work so that you may be mature and complete, not lacking anything.”
For what he will birth within you both over this last leg will give a lifetime of reward as you perservere with the burden of carrying such a great responsibility - He will see it to the end that just what he intended your life to be - it shall be.
My friends I am certain that you both are great men and will have a tie for the rest of your time in this life but know that the greatest tie comes when there is something else to live for - when what we do alone has the ability to impact another persons life for good or maybe a multitude, a race, a nation, an entire generation or even the entire world with no boundaries to race, colour, gender or time. There is only one factor that will decide where you sit on the impact scale - YOU and your willingness to surrender all that you know and have dreamed up until now.
It is in the stillness that we are able to win the greatest battles we may face, be still my friends and a great voice will be heard within you both - a voice that will not be silenced but cannot be heard by the ears of man. I am excited for you both on thi last leg for the greatest journey is about to begin for you both - go as you are led.
You boys have a protected journey and take in the enormity of what it is that you are about to finish. God Bless you both - the Shalom of God be with you,
In God’s speed and protection,
Mick
Comment by Mick — January 26, 2008 @ 7:15 pm
Mark & Nath
This year is a leap year and that means one thing, come August, THE OLYMPiC GAMES WILL BE HELD IN CHINA.
What does this have to do with what you are doing you may ask?
But lets sit there a minute and think about this:-
1. The scene was set in 2007 some crazy? (adventurers) Australians left our shores.
2. They walked, they climbed, to great heights and down again to a drop of water. (up & down)
3. Followed a drop of water to a stream, onwards until a boat would float. (done the hard yards)
4. Challenged nature with all its fury and anger. (pushed your bodies to the limit)
5. Flat water with more of nature’s anger in the form of lightning, rain, sickness, human nature, helping a mate. Fixing gear that broke. (training harder)
6. Down to two but the fire still burns to complete this journey. (fine tune the will to win)
In the coming weeks the finish line will appear, the spirit will lift, a feeling of satisfaction, elation, joy and most of all completion of a worth while DREAM. YOU HAVE COMPETED and WON your own personal goal. (sounds familiar to an Olympian?)
AUSSIE! AUSSIE! AUSSIE!
Baz
Comment by Bazza — January 26, 2008 @ 11:15 pm
Hi Boys,
Another day down and although not yet seen you have been given hope that the end is near. I am not sure just how many people have been following your trip but I know that some people have been blessed along the way. Have no doubt that you boys have moved lives that otherwise may not have been able to be moved.
I looked at HOPE today and just how the things of the world have misplaced the meaning of the word. If I take Hope and place as I read or hear around me daily I would have myself think of it as something like an untouchable dream - a life that I would love to live but just can’t get there - maybe I would hope for something without having to do the work required.
But in looking at it from the perspective of its true meaning I would say that it can actually be seen as a promise that I know will come to pass. It is the ability for myself to not just believe that something may be possible but to actually without doubt know that although I do not have what it is I want right now - I will have it in the future.
I see HOPE as being the vehicle that takes a belief or Faith in something and transforms it into action that will see it one day manifested in our life.
If I look at your trip - it once started by reading a book on rafting the amazon - which turned into the birthing of a dream - then turned into a desire of achievement - then a plan in Hope to do it - then a reality with a team ready to go in the Hope that it will be finished - now all of it is about to be realised. It is this Hope that has you keep going - because something inside you knows that you will get to the end.
I see that it is through Hope that we are able to find everything we need at every moment we need it - because we know that in our Hope is the certainty that we will finish what we have started because our Hope is not just an impossible dream but a vehilcle to manifest our dreams. It is in Hope that we find patience, perserverance, humility, determination and most of all - ourselves. It is in our Hope that we may find ourself.
You boys have definately shown the lot of us that Hope is the vehicle of Faith that is able to realise our dreams - as an every day achievement. what we once had Hoped in we are now able to live each day and now Hope in something far greater again.
I share this from saint Paul:
Romans 5:5 “And hope does not disappoint us, because God has poured out his love into our hearts by the Holy Spirit, whom he has given us.”
Keep going my friends, in your pain you will find perserverance and in your perserverance character - In your character you will then find hope - (words of Saint Paul again).
Looking forward to hearing from you guys again,
In God’s speed,
Mick
Comment by Mick — January 28, 2008 @ 12:29 am
Be Strong - be Courageous - Victory will be yours.
Just as Joshua did after the death of Moses - He was given the authority over the flooding Jordan river and saw it come to a standstill - only so that He and all his people could make their way to the promised land - a land of milk and honey.
You also have been given the very same authority over the amazon - just listen and act upon what your thoughts tell you my friends - and again also you will experience a land of milk and honey for yourselves.
You are coming to a point where you are going to require your joint wisdom, and all your strength but the victory has already been given my friends, the Lord says to be courageous and do not rely on reason but spirit.
Be Strong - Be courageous - the victory is yours.
In God’s speed,
Mick
Comment by Mick — January 28, 2008 @ 7:51 pm
Buf n Welshy
Just got home from Mackay boys, everyone wishing you the best, Grantly’s 40th , heaps of fun!!!!!!!!!!!!
can’t wait to see you both real soon, always thinking bout you 2,
Safe Travels
Doogs Row Tyra n Gus
Comment by Dougal — January 28, 2008 @ 10:41 pm